A Journey by Bicycle through Europe, Siberia, Mongolia & China

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Sunday, 8^th August 2004
Ulaan Baator, Mongolia
Total kms so far: 15,100

Arrived in Ulan Bator yesterday and working on a proper update for the website, which has been sadly neglected for the last few months....

Saturday, 21^st August 2004
Ulan Bator
Total kms so far: 15,100

Here's one John Peel would have enjoyed: it's a shame we did the Home Truths interview in advance because I think John would have preferred talking about music really. I got the impression he's not really a cycling man...

Anyway, last night, seeking entertainment during my involuntary sojourn in the Mongolian capital, I went to see "Playtime 2004", Ulan Bator's biggest "Alternative Indie Rock" festival.

There were some fine acts on display - and some lesser talents making a lot of noise too. Unfortunately I didn't catch the names of any of the bands so I can't make specific recommendations for John Peel's Radio 1 show, but maybe he'll be coming "Live from Ulan Bator" next year. Or perhaps it's more an Andy Kershaw thing?

One of the highlights was a Mongolian band performing an excellent cover of Radiohead's 'Creep'. They had it perfectly, even down to the agonised contorted facial expressions. There was a pretty accomplished rendition of Macy Gray's "I try (to walk away and I stumble)", too, and a not-quite-so-perfect attempt to resurrect Mr Kobain with a couple of Nirvana numbers.

I mention the familiar stuff because at least I can put a name to them. Most of the music on show was local though, and a lot of it was really good. Definitely not the saccharine-sweet schmaltzy soft-pop that I think dominates the "mainstream" of Mongolian (and for that matter Chinese ) contemporary music.

Unfortunately I'd come unprepaired for a late-night session. The show was supposed to kick off at 8pm and go on for "2 or 3 hours". As it was, the first band hit the stage after 9.30, and the music was still coming at half-past one when the heavens opened and I could no longer pretend that, clad only in a t-shirt, I was not freezing slowly to death. So I had to pack up and head "home", leaving I don't know how many bands un-heard.

They showed every sign of planning to keep the music flowing till dawn. In the four hours I was there I must have seen over 20 bands. To keep the turnover rapid, each was allowed to perform just a couple of numbers - though some of the more embarrassing ones were quietly beckoned off stage after their first.

"Macy Gray" was accompanied by an accomplished guitarist who I think was European, but by the sounds of things he speaks pretty good Mongolian, warming up the crowd with a constant stream of jokes: the locals loved it. They loved it even more when he indulged in a bout of frenzied guitar-smashing during one of the heavier acts later in the evening.

Not what I came to Mongolia for, but it beats wandering the streets of UB eating 'buuz' (greasy mutton-fat dumplings) and munching little green apples from the roadside stalls.

Saturday, 21^st August 2004
Ulan Bator
Total kms so far: 15,100

I've posted a listing of recent media coverage on the media page, and some newspaper scans here.

Sunday, 22^nd August 2004
Ulan Bator
Total kms so far: 15,100

Have just found The Sun's article online. The headline was better in the print edition though: "Mongolian Horseman stole my Bicycle". The abbreviated form in the on-line edition, "Mongolian stole my Bike" lacks resonance with Freddie Starr's hamster-eating tendencies.

I was talking to an Israeli backpacker this morning. He said I'm lucky not to be cycling in Israel, or the headline would have been "Ariel Sharon ate my tent". I liked that.

The Ulaan Baatar Post has also published an account of the Great Bicycle Robbery.

I've just read that GB won five Olympic golds yesterday.

[If you're not a cricket fan, ignore this paragraph:]
And Michael Vaughan and his team have whitewashed the West Indies 4-0. Good work lads. I was even able to listen to a bit of TMS commentary online. Blowers saw an aeroplane going past the gas-holders at the Oval. "What do you think it's doing, Foxy", he asked. "Looks like flying, to me, Henry", came the reply. A few minutes later, Blowers sent a large glob of spit flying onto Bearders' scorebook. "My dear old thing, I'm terribly sorry. Does anyone have any blotting paper?" Ah, the joys of an English summer....
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See photos for this month